Eric Montandon and I decided to do "Trilogy Buttress" this past Saturday morning. It was one of those mornings where you wake up before your alarm (which was really weird because mine was set for 5:50 a.m.) and you look out the window and the sky is the same color as windex. After a bowl of captain crunch I headed to Eric's house arriving a little before 7:00 a.m. We got to the base of the climb pretty quick and started into it.
The first pitch was a little run out having only 4 bolts in about 100 feet. It was Easy climbing so it wasn't to sketchy. The wall had a lot of loose debris and I found myself wishing I had invested in a helmet. Nothing could ruin the day faster than catching a falling boulder in the face....
When we reached the top of the second pitch our shade had run out and we found ourselves wishing we had started and hour or two earlier. I quickly learned why the route was called "Lord of the Slings"... I didn't really bring any to use to reduce rope drag/tension and it became very difficult to lead. I had to pull the rope to get some slack and then make a move. Good thing is was a 5.9 or I would have had a rough go of things.
My shoes turned into little ovens on the last pitch so I peeled them off and belayed Eric up the top out. Reaching the top felt good, it could have been better only if there had been a swimming pool up there with some shade. The walk off was kind of slow going, a lot of loose dirt and rocks on a steep trail. It took about an hour to get down. We headed back to Eric's place and had some refreshingly cold drinks.