Direct Beckey

We were 10 pitches into the Direct Beckey. We were out of water, exhausted, and ready to be done. As I started into the tenth pitch with my butt hanging out over the 1,000 feet of open air, I couldn't believe the layback finger crack was 5.8. Nothing about this route thus far had been easy for me and I will willingly admit that it was well above my fitness level. Greg had charged through the leads like a champ and I was just glad to be there.

We had both reached a point in our misery that only the summit could cure. It had been a spectacular route with some of the most amazing climbing I have ever had the opportunity to do. Elephants Perch is a massive wall made of a really unique pinkish orange granite. Its size is hard to capture in photos. I had hoped to document the climb with my GoPro, but when I had reached the top of the first pitch I looked down and saw it sitting peacefully at the base. That meant we only had Greg's iPhone to document the route. 

As far a climbing trips go, the few I have been on with Greg have been some of the best. Last year we had a pretty interesting time on Castleton Tower. This time we went for the longest most difficult route we have ever tried. Both times Greg has dragged me up to some of the most amazing summit moments of my life. He is a solid climber and he always has a great attitude, even if the situation turns out less than ideal. This trip made me realize that I need to get my fitness level up if I want to keep getting invites from Greg and if I ever want to reach my bigger climbing goals. Just climbing here and there isn't cutting it. 

As I pushed up the last pitch with everything I had left, I reached the summit ready to vomit. I don't think I have ever been so dehydrated. Greg and I were all smiles and high fives. We were happy to be off the wall but grateful for the good weather and the experience. I learned a lot on this trip about myself and the type of climber I want to be. Hopefully next time I am in the Sawtooths I will be able to swing leads on this route. I am lucky to have a friend like Greg that is patient enough to let me follow him up something like the Direct Becky.

The Sawtooth Range

Leaving the interstate in Idaho is like a trip back in time. Small towns that look as if they have been frozen since the 1950's interrupt the monotonous drive. We eventually pass through Ketchum and Sun Valley, the final resting place of Ernest Hemingway and the last town before we catch our first glimpse of the Sawtooths. This rugged range sits smack dab in the middle of Idaho surrounded by an outdoorsman's dreamscape. 

We parked next to Red Fish Lake, a tourist attraction surrounded by people from all walks of life, and pulled on our heavy packs. We caught a ferry across the lake and started the trek toward Elephants Perch. It's a monolithic piece of granite that juts abruptly out of the ground causing your head to roll back until it feels as if it will fall off. This will be the biggest climb in my life thus far. 

After grunting our packs up the steeper part of the approach we finally hit Saddleback lake. The area is pristine. It is everything a climber could want. Perfect granite that goes for a thousand feet, cliff jumping, comfortable camping, and fishing. It is like living in Bob Ross's brain. There were happy trees everywhere. 

Superior South Ridge

The South Ridge of Mount Superior is a jagged exposed line that is a the most direct route to the summit. It has a good mix of class 4/5 scrambling, exposure, and beautiful views. The last time I was up on the east ridge I decided it would be fun to shoot some photos of my friends on the south ridge from the east ridge. I immediately thought of my friend Brody Leven. He recently got back from an amazing trip to climb North America's highest peak, Denali, with a huge historic expedition. 

Parker and I had been talking about doing the ridge for a while so he made the list as well. We met up at the mouth of the canyon and spent the drive up prodding Brody for details on his trip. I dropped them off at the base of Superior and headed for the trail that would take me up the east ridge. I hurried up the route and got myself into position. It was nice to be up in the alpine with an excuse to sit for a decent amount of time. 

I snapped photos until they were out of sight, then I ended up following a hear of mountain goats around for an hour or so. They were surprisingly fine with me getting close. All in all I thought the evening was a success.