Little Cottonwood

As I begin to let go of winter objectives I am beginning to remember what I love about longer days and warmer temperatures. Eric Montandon and I got out for our first Little Cottonwood route of the season. We decided to hop on Perhaps, a pretty mellow 5.7. I have done the route before, but I forgot that the entire second pitch requires almost constant underclinging. A move that is extremely difficult for me because of a motorcycle accident which broke both of my arms when I was 14. 

Regardless of my handicap it is a spectacular route. I even found myself enjoying the uncomfortable underclings. Eric lead both pitches and did really well. He unfortunately had to fight an excessive amount of rope drag as he finished the route, but he handled it like a champ. We rappelled down over the top of another LCC classic called the "Green Adjective". We each took a lap on that before calling it a night. 

Little Cottonwood Canyon-Mosquitoes: 20; Me: 10+

 "Crescent Crack 5.7"- I might have lost a pint of blood as I sat at the bottom of "Mexican Crack" while Greg gave it a go. Mosquitoes are the worst. Those bold little suckers go in for a meal even when they have around a 50% chance of dying. I wouldn't do it. If I had a pizza pocket sitting in the microwave right now and 50/50 chance of getting crushed on my way over there I would go eat something else. Idiot bugs.

Greg and I met up to do a few climbs but got shut down on our attempt at "Cresent Crack". There was a group in front of us that was moving pretty slow so we bagged it at the top of the first pitch. We were barely able to rappel off because it was a long way up. The rope didn't quite reach the ground, but we could swing over into an easy crack that we could down climb.


Greg is a strong climber and as easy to get along with as anyone I have ever met.  Even though our plan didn't work out it was great to get up on something that I have never done before. I am definitely struggling to learn to climb slabby granite. A 5.6 feels a lot harder than I think it should.

 Greg at the top of Mexican Crack

Our friendly route friend. They were nice. Slow climbers, but nice.

 Little Cottonwood Canyon

My first trad lead: "Perhaps" 5.7

 

 Trad climbing has seemed out of reach for a long time. The equipment needed is expensive and the skills required I always felt I didn't have. For some reason I recently have been getting invites to go by a few people and yesterday it finally worked out. Austin Davis's family has been climbing for a long time and with his recent return from his mission he had been wanting to get out. Tanner and I took him up on it and met him early to drive up to Little Cottonwood Canyon.

We headed up to the wall passing all the old remains of the quarried granite for the Salt Lake Temple. I decided I would lead the first pitch and pulled on the large rack of nuts and cams (the equipment you place in cracks to safeguard a fall). This was my first time really pulling onto a slabby granite face so there where definitely times where I felt a little gripped. The climbing was easy, but unlike what I am normally used to.

I finished my pitch and Tanner and Austin rapidly followed. We split the second pitch into two and took our time. The last bit of climbing was hard for me, it was really the first time I have felt hindered climbing by my wrists. Due to a motorcycle accident I don't have the ability to put my palms to the sky when my arms are extended, so the underclings were that much harder. I figured out a way to get by and got across. It was a fun day, and I couldn't have been happier to get my first lead under my belt.