Castleton: round 2

My last visit to Castleton ended in defeat. This trip looked to deliver more of the same. We arrived in Castle Valley as the sun was setting and were greeted by good friends and gusting winds. After sitting around the fire for a couple of hours squinting through the gusts we decided to turn in. I shut my eyes hoping that the wind would die down during the night.

My alarm sounded bright and early so we could beat the "other parties" that would be up on the tower. We didn't know we were the only ones stupid enough to be climbing that day. The wind was still gusting but we were all antsy to get up climbing. This was Tanner's last trip before he took off for his mission to Honduras so we decided to go for it. "If it is still gusting this hard when we get up there, we will turn back," I said. Had I known what was coming I would have probably gone back to bed, but I'm glad I didn't.

After making the hour long hike to the base of the climb, the winds were actually getting worse. Before I knew it Curtis and Tanner were already up the wall. As I followed Greg up the first pitch I noticed the winds were getting stronger. Some minor dust clouds were beginning to swirl down in the valley, but by this point we were already committed. As we climbed higher the wind continued to strengthen and small pebbles pinged off of my helmet as I belayed. 

I yelled up to Greg for more slack on the final pitch so I could get the rope off of a rock. The winds were so strong we couldn't communicate even though I was only 20 feet away. Eventually he belayed me up to the summit. I felt as though I was hanging on to the side of a truck on the freeway before finally swinging my self up through the last few moves. 

The sky was beginning to darken with sand as we began our decent. After the rappels we had a long walk off the mountain which was no easy task. Each gust blasted sand into our eyes and made us stagger down the difficult trail. We finally wandered into camp. We sat and laughed at ourselves for what we had just done.

Like I said, had I known what we were in for when I woke up that morning I probably wouldn't have gone. But I am glad I did. I will remember this experience and the friends I was with for the rest of my life.

The City 2

After taking our time on "Lost Arrow" we had time for one more route. I started my way up "Columbian Crack" and the climbing was a lot of fun... until I got higher up on the route and had used up most of my bigger cams. I ended up having to run it out pretty far and there where a few moments where I wasn't very comfortable (meaning I was pretty freaked out). I reeled it in and calmed my nerves back down before finishing the route.

After we got done we headed to the hot springs for a soak. Almo, Idaho is a great little town that I hope to get to know better.

The City

 

We piled into Tanner's truck Friday evening and headed north. The City of Rocks, ID is home to some amazing granite climbing. After a late arrival, we found all the camping sites full... after driving around for a little while we finally asked a group of motorhomers if we could crash in the vacant spots. They where a little drunk and way nice so they let us stay.

Morning rolled around and we all eventually woke up and got ready. Austin showed up and we got everything together and headed out to get some climbing done. The first climb of the day was on a granite spire called "Lost Arrow". We were planning to do a 5.7 but ended up starting in the wrong place and going up a 5.8X. The X means that the route is hard to protect and can result in really long falls... it was actually a lot of fun and really manageable. Even though it was a pretty mellow 5.8 there where moments where it felt pretty spicy. 

We all made it up and had fun hanging out up top. Tanner is leaving on his mission soon so we are trying to spend as much time with him as possible. We will miss that dirtbag when he goes....

 

Arm and Hammer

Bells Canyon sits right above Draper, UT and is home to some amazing granite. I was pretty excited when Greg called and asked if I could go. Greg is a strong climber and following him allows me to get up some really cool routes. We went up to do Arm and Hammer and it did not disappoint.

After a long approach and waiting for a party in front of us we finally started up the first pitch. We ended up climbing past the other party. The third pitch on this route was the stand out. They call it the Zion Curtain. A thin granite flake that runs up about 60 ft is the prize of this route. It was some of the most fun climbing I have ever done.